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Posted by: tarheel1 at July 14, 2005, 9:33 am
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
daneq wrote: ss1 is a horrible book, unless you have the table image of doyle and u play $50-$100, like doyle

aweful advice in the limit section

I think that may be quite an exageration. what most people fail to understand when reading something like super system is that it is good advice for a top flight game. the problem is most of us are not playing in top flight games. sshe says that the advice give (in sshe) may be completely wrong for larger stakes games does that mean to a high stakes player sshe is horrible? maby buy I bet he would still apply concepts stated in the book.
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Posted by: daneq at July 14, 2005, 9:10 am
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
ss1 is a horrible book, unless you have the table image of doyle and u play $50-$100, like doyle

aweful advice in the limit section
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Posted by: tarheel1 at July 14, 2005, 8:54 am
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
Have read sshe and am now re reading it, Also Have theory of poker and have read some of it. I have had a hard time staying interested in theory as opposed to sshe. I am browsing Bobby Baldwins section in ss1.
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Posted by: Cha Ngo at July 11, 2005, 10:41 pm
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
Quote: sklansky also wrote another good book called theory of poker, its pretty good too
"Theory of Poker" is the best poker book I have read and I have read a few. Please let me know which ones are better so I can rush out and purchase them.
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Posted by: daneq at July 11, 2005, 10:32 pm
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
i was strictly a NLHE player also, then when i began playing online poker i realized half of what makes a good NL player cant be used online all that much, like tells, twitching hands, the way u bet with chips, (100 $1 chips or 4 $25 chips)

so i played $1-$2 6max and i can tell you taht it was a lot easier adjustment due to the natural aggression of the game and less stress on the math of the game

i can also highly recommend "winning low-limit hold em" by lee jones and sklansky also wrote another good book called theory of poker, its pretty good too
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Posted by: sjguppy at July 11, 2005, 1:06 pm
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
VolFan64 wrote: sjguppy wrote: Read Ed Millers book It gives great advice on starting hands. Much easier to read than the 8 tier Sklansky tables.

Are you speaking of his "Small Stakes Hold'em" written with Sklansky and Malmuth? I hope so. I just ordered it from Amazon.

Thanks,
VolFan64

That's the one. My understanding is he wrote all but the forward and a few bits and pieces. Of course he got his start reading Sklansky and Malmuth so there is a lot of similarity. Miller's book is written more for the average player who is playing up to 5-10 or 10-20 holdem while Sklansky is geared more towards higher stakes games. Both are great books.
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Posted by: elf23 at July 11, 2005, 11:31 am
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
Osric wrote: It is REALLY easy to let your starting hand requirements slip if you try to do this too much. Pretty soon, you start saying "I can play A-X s from middle position." Then later on you look at A3 under the gun and hit call without thinking. Pretty soon, you have a dozen minor leaks eating up all your chips.

I don't think limping with Ax s in MP on a loose passive table is a bad move at all, in fact I don't think playing Ax s from any position on a loose passive table is a bad move at all, as long as you aren't going to call raises with your A no kicker when you miss the flush.
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Bart: Good ol' Rock, nothing beats Rock.
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Posted by: VolFan64 at July 10, 2005, 7:53 pm
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
sjguppy wrote: Read Ed Millers book It gives great advice on starting hands. Much easier to read than the 8 tier Sklansky tables.

Are you speaking of his "Small Stakes Hold'em" written with Sklansky and Malmuth? I hope so. I just ordered it from Amazon.

Thanks,
VolFan64
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Posted by: tarheel1 at July 8, 2005, 7:07 pm
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
Osric wrote: I would only loosen up like this on the button, and then only if you have enough callers in the hand to make it worthwhile. No use callin 9-10s on the button if everyone has folded to you...either fold or raise to steal the blinds in this type of situation.

It is REALLY easy to let your starting hand requirements slip if you try to do this too much. Pretty soon, you start saying "I can play A-X s from middle position." Then later on you look at A3 under the gun and hit call without thinking. Pretty soon, you have a dozen minor leaks eating up all your chips.

Stay tight except when you are on the button.

I understand this I am only caling with several lipmers with at least 4or 5-1 pot odds pre flop
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Posted by: Osric at July 8, 2005, 4:48 pm
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
I would only loosen up like this on the button, and then only if you have enough callers in the hand to make it worthwhile. No use callin 9-10s on the button if everyone has folded to you...either fold or raise to steal the blinds in this type of situation.

It is REALLY easy to let your starting hand requirements slip if you try to do this too much. Pretty soon, you start saying "I can play A-X s from middle position." Then later on you look at A3 under the gun and hit call without thinking. Pretty soon, you have a dozen minor leaks eating up all your chips.

Stay tight except when you are on the button.
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Posted by: ed209 at July 8, 2005, 11:38 am
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
use position and pot odds to determine whether to come in with drawing hands. the more players limping in ahead of you or cold calling 2 bets, you can follow in with any pair, or 'reasonably good' suited cards (use your personal preference and experience). I would say at least 3 people in for the minimum plus the blinds is a possible guideline.

if you do hit a good drawing hand (flush or OESD) then raise, check-raise or semi-bluff on the flop to build the pot and raise expectation should you hit the turn or river. flopping a made hand or a set, you can choose to let someone else bet in for you and drag in some overcalls, unless you need to protect a draw which can beat you (this includes any non-nut straights and flushes). you can probably also see the turn for secondary, unraised draws like gutshots or a 2nd/3rd pair (rainbow board with no redraws); but otherwise you can safely fold to any postflop aggression.

on a multiway drawing hand, a typical LHE pot might be around 8-10BB's (com...
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Posted by: sjguppy at July 8, 2005, 11:12 am
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
I wouldn't loosen up. Just play tight aggressive. No reason to change your playing style if it is solid. If you were playing multible .50-1.00 you might be more inclined to play high suited from any position just because of the amount of players in the hand and you will have odds to draw to flushes and straits. If you want more action just play more than one table.

Read Ed Millers book It gives great advice on starting hands. Much easier to read than the 8 tier Sklansky tables. If you use his stategy for loose tables it is extremely easy to remember what hands to start with. My bb win ratio has gone way up since I read his book. I was playing way to many hands for draws that I shouldn't have been in to start with. If you don't hit the drawing hands such as low suited then you are out 1sb each time and it add up over time. Even if you hit them that doesn't guarantee you will win since others may be drawing from higher suited or other good hands.
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Posted by: tarheel1 at July 8, 2005, 8:06 am
Topic: NLHE to LHE Forum: Bonus Whores
I have been a strictly no limit player since I started playing ring games. however my recent downswing( bad cards followed by bad decision making) has led me to start playing limit. I think I have found what I am looking for. at 1/2 limit almost every hand is raked and bonuses clear fast ( have played crypto, absolute, paradise) I read sshe a while ago and it occured to me that I should be seeing the flop with more sited connectors and high suited cards since you almost always have pot odds to call straight and flush draws. playing no limit your pot odds are there to chase much less often. Should I loosen up and start plaing more drawing hands?

** edit
of course within reason (not 1st position not vs raise etc.)
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